We’ve covered stops one and two of my marathon, 40th-Birthday, Nordic celebration. Stop three was no less epic as we got to experience 2 days in Stockholm.
In honor of Sweden’s unbreakable bond to its native band, ABBA, I’ve created a little game in this post. I’ve hidden lyrics from 9 ABBA songs in the guide below. I’ll leave a link to the key at the end of the post, but before you peek, leave a comment letting me know your guesses. Happy hunting, Super Trouper. 🪩
Please note any prices listed are approximate and will depend on the exchange rate while you’re there so please don’t quote me on any of them. Kthanks.
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Stockholm 101
Geography & Climate
Stockholm is the capital city of Sweden as well as the largest urban area out of all of the Nordic countries. Strategically located where Lake Mälaren hits the Baltic Sea on the country’s eastern shore, Stockholm spreads across fourteen islands.
Stockholm is in the Humid Continental climate zone, which means cold winters that usually remain above freezing and warm summers. It was snowing off and on the entire time we were there in January. Even with that, the temperatures were never exceptionally frigid.
Airport
Stockholm’s air hub is Stockholm Arlanda Airport (ARN), located 25 miles (40 km) north of the city. There is a 20-minute train, the Arlanda Express, that will get you between the airport and town for around $30 USD per ticket. Discounted rates are available when purchasing multiple tickets or roundtrip tickets.
Getting Around
Stockholm has an extensive public-transportation system that includes metro, tram, bus, commuter rail and ferry options. Tickets can be purchased in advance on your phone via the “SL-Journey planner and tickets” app. You just tap your phone on the card reader at the entry barriers of the metro/commuter rail or as you enter the bus, tram, or ferry.
A single ticket is valid for 75 minutes once purchased and will cost around $4 USD. You can also get a 24-hour pass for around $17 USD, a 72-hour pass for around $34 USD, or a 7-day pass for around $44 USD.
Always ensure you have a valid ticket as if there is an inspection and you are caught without one, the penalty is around $150 USD.
While we did take advantage of the trams and the metro during our stay, our take was we can go walking, as long as we’re together. Without the kids we even got to talk for once. The city was covered with fresh snow, and we loved getting to wander through the neighborhoods. It really maximized the beautiful views we could take in during our 2 days in Stockholm while we made our way between stops.
Time
Stockholm is on Central European Time, which is, typically, 6 hours ahead of Eastern Time. They do observe daylight savings, but dates may not align exactly so be sure to check. Like most of Europe, for any event notices, time will likely be displayed using a 24-hour format, ex. 7:30 pm will show as 19:30.
Language
The official language is Swedish, but we had no problems communicating and transacting on kiosks in English.
Currency
Sweden uses the Swedish Krona. I always use the xe.com mobile app to get current rates on the road, but for some frame of reference, as of Mar 2, 2024, $1 USD was equal to 10.32 SEK and €1 was 11.19 SEK.
We never had any need for cash while in Sweden, but make sure AmEx is not the only card option in your wallet as it was not as widely accepted as Visa or MasterCard.
Arrival
Our train from Copenhagen arrived to the Stockholm Central Station around 9:45 pm on a Sunday night. The station was massive and maze-like as we navigated our way to an exit we hoped was generally in the right direction.
Once we made it outside, we got to experience our first active snow of the trip. With it being late on a Sunday, most everything was closed and it was almost completely silent. Even with the quiet stillness, we felt a sense of expectation hanging in the air. The train station is truly central and the walk to our hotel only took about five minutes.
Hotel
We spent both nights in Stockholm at the Downtown Camper by Scandic. The location was great, the vibe was very chill, and the room was comfortable as hell. I’m also one of those weirdos who sleeps with a fan (or two) on year round, and they had a fan in the room. Automatic bonus points in my book.
The staff here also saved our butts. Within 20 minutes of checking out, we were across the street enjoying coffee and pastries when my phone rang. The cleaning staff had found our passports. In the safe. Where I kept them safe. From myself.
Cost: $306 USD for two nights in a Classic Double room.
Places to Eat
Breakfast
Bröd & Salt: Our first morning we were on a mission to get to the ABBA Museum as soon as they opened, so we chose the café closest to our hotel to get our fix of coffee and carbs. In addition to a chocolate croissant and a cinnamon bun, we also got a taste of the local cardamom roll. The crunchy, peppercorn texture of the cardamom messed with our heads a bit, but the flavor makes it worth a try.
Cost: $22 USD for two cappuccinos and three pastries.
Vete-Katten: A truly good cup of coffee will leave you feeling like now everything is new. The cup at Vete-Katten did just that. Located in the center of the Gallerian shopping mall, the café has a distinctly French look, with a mouth-watering array of Swedish pastries. Being located in the open atrium of the Gallerian also makes it prime for people watching.
Cost: $25 USD for two pastries, two cappuccinos, and a bottle of water.
Lunch
Mom’s Kitchen Nybrogatan: There may be trendier places in Stockholm to get the quintessential Köttbullar, or Swedish Meatballs. Based on a rave review from Lauren Cotter’s YouTube guide and the convenience of its location, however, we opted to try Mom’s Kitchen Nybrogatan. We accidentally received a classic version and the dairy-free, gluten-free version and decided to go halvsies on both to see how they compared. Honestly, the dairy and gluten version did have a creamier advantage that we both preferred, but if you are dairy- or gluten-free, you will not be missing out. Both were outstanding.
We also had the chance to chat with the owner for about 30 minutes. His story of being a veteran and relocating to Sweden was fascinating and he was a genuinely great guy. While we can’t compare to the other well-known meatball places in Stockholm, we loved Mom’s and would enthusiastically recommend it to anyone.
Cost: $40 for two meatball plates, a beer, and a coke.
Sthlm City Food Hall: This centrally located hall holds eight stalls serving food varying from sushi to pizza to noodles to smoothies. We opted to divide and conquer culinarily – Matt hitting a sandwich place and I went for a burger and fries. The food hall in Reykjavik set a high bar, and this place had the vibe of a mall food court more than a food hall, but the food was excellent.
Cost: $19 USD at Bun Meat Bun for a double cheeseburger, nice fries, and a coke. $18 at Mackverket for a pork sandwich, fries, and a pear seltzer.
Fika
Café Schweizer: One of Sweden’s cultural prides and joys is the practice of fika. Fika (pronounced fee-kuh) is a mid-day break, typically taken with friends, to enjoy a coffee and a pastry. We popped in to the popular Café Schweizer in Gamma Stan to partake. I can’t handle mid-day coffee and still sleep, so I went for a thick hot chocolate topped with house-made whipped cream. We also split a slice of traditional Princess Cake. It consists of layers of sponge cake, raspberry jam, vanilla custard, and whipped cream covered with a layer of rolled marzipan. Absolutely recommend trying a slice when you come across it.
Cost: $22 for a slice of cake, a drip coffee, and a hot chocolate with cream.
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Dinner
DiWINE Stockholm: The downside of arriving late night on a Sunday in Stockholm is that everything is closed up. Even when we asked at our hotel about dinner when checking in, they basically told us, nah – but we’ll see you at breakfast. We found one option while looking at the maps app and it was this place. Even without any options, we were glad we stumbled on this place. Not to sound stereotypically American, but the burgers were amazing and the truffle aioli with the fries was next level.
Cost: $61 for two burgers, a glass of wine, and a mojito.
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Campfire Grill and Bar: Our last night we decided to stay close and grab dinner at the hotel restaurant. We went all in and got two starters, two mains, and two rounds of drinks each.
We started out with a flank steak taco topped with avocado cream and pineapple salsa and the Langos & Skagen. Langos is a crispy, pillowy fried dough a lot like a chalupa shell from Taco Bell. Skagen is a traditional creamy prawn salad made with the teeniest tiniest little North-Atlantic shrimps I’ve ever seen. The usual combination is Skagen with toast but we both really enjoyed the Campfire’s take.
For mains we ordered the grilled chicken and the grilled tuna. I’m not going to lie. The mains were… underwhelming. If we had to do it again, we both agree we would order larger servings of the tacos and langos & skagen and leave it at that.
Cost: $140 for two cocktails, a local, sour beer, a glass of wine, one steak taco, a langos & skagen starter, the grilled chicken, and the grilled tuna.
Things to Do
ABBA The Museum: It is probably more than mildly ridiculous that this is the only museum we ended up going to this entire two-week trip. Either way, we had a ton of fun. The museum contains interactive experiences that immerse you in the music. The exhibits convey each member’s origin story, the experience of the band, and what happened after they went their separate ways. Be warned, they have an epic shop at the end that is extremely tempting.
Cost: $51 for two adult admissions
Wandering Around Gamla Stan: The most fun I had on this trip was simply wandering around the narrow streets of Gamla Stan, the old town of Stockholm. The neighborhood dates to the 1200’s and has an historic, picturesque feel. We spent part of two days just wending our way along and can guarantee if you make your way along the cobblestone streets and then along the waterfront, you’ll be having the time of your life.
Iron Boy – Boy Watching the Moon: While looking at the map while we were in Gamla Stan, I noticed a marker in a small square with an interesting description. Sitting at less than 6 in tall (15 cm), to find the Iron Boy, you have to go through an alley and beyond an intimidating iron fence that makes you feel like you’re trespassing. He is stinking adorable though, so make the effort, gird your spirits, and go find him.
The Nest Wellness at Downtown Camper by Scandic: On the top floor of the Downtown Camper by Scandic sits a pool and wellness experience that is worth considering. You have to book in advance and there is an entrance fee that varies based on day of the week and whether or not you’re staying at the hotel. The draw is, of course, the heated pool with views over Stockholm. While we were there it was actively snowing which made it feel just that much more magical and bizarre and amazing.
Once we were ready to get out of the pool, we very quickly hauled our wet asses through the literal freezing cold and into the indoor section of the Nest. In the center is a modular sauna that’s meant to resemble a bird’s nest. If I stay in a sauna for too long, there’s a fire within my soul so I could only hang for a couple of minutes.
The final component is the “experience showers.” These are completely open, so it is a bathing-suit situation. With that, the only toiletry that was available in the shower was a house-made, oil-based scrub, which was a bit disappointing. What was not disappointing was the five unique water features per shower.
Cost: $67 USD for two hotel guests on a weekday.
Where to Shop
Makeri 14: If you’re a knitter, crocheter, or fiber artist, going into this store, you’ll be dancing once again. I popped in to get a ball of yarn for a project I’m plotting (you might have noticed a yarn store included in each stop… hint, hint), and the owner was knowledgeable and extremely helpful in making sure I left with exactly what I needed. This store is also right across the alleyway you take to find the Iron Boy statue.
Dala Shop: A great place in the heart of Gamla Stan to stop for the traditional Swedish Dala horse souvenir. In the back is a work table where horses are being shaped and painted and you can learn more about the tradition. They also host workshops where you can paint your own horse or ornament if you’re into that DIY lifestyle.
Amandas: This store is an adorable mishmash of things. They have a wide selection of merch for national icon, Pippi Longstocking. You can also find a variety of souvenirs that pay homage to Stockholm’s sights and scenes including swimsuits or underwear adorned with cinnamon buns.
Departure
Usually when leaving a place, I can’t help but feel a sense of melancholy at my time there coming to an end. This time, it might be because we’re heading to Finland, which I am very excited about, or because we have a night aboard a decked-out Tallink Silja Line ship, but I won’t feel blue, like I always do.
From the center of town to the ferry terminal is about 30 minutes by public transport and 15 by car. We opted for a taxi and ended up arriving extremely early, which wasn’t necessary. There isn’t much to do at the terminal outside of a single cafe/bar and the check in process was via kiosk and took a total of 2 minutes. Gates to access the ship open 30 minutes ahead of departure time, so getting to the terminal 45 minutes to an hour before sailing time is plenty.
HELPFUL NOTE: Signs for the boat were primarily labeled for “Helsingfors” which is Swedish for Helsinki.
The cruise takes 17 hours overnight. Onboard you can find restaurants, duty-free shopping, and a bar/lounge/casino with live entertainment. For both of us in an A-class cabin, the one-way route cost around $200 USD.
Places We Didn’t Get To This Go Around
Subway Art Tour: Stockholm is known for the art installations in their underground metro stations. I am so bummed we missed these and it is at the top of my list for when we get back.
Nobel Prize Museum: This museum hosts exhibits and short films that aim to explore the creative forces in natural sciences and culture that they celebrate through the Nobel Prize process.
Brunos Korvbar: We were aiming to try a street dog at every stop on this trip and unfortunately we fell off that wagon in Stockholm. From my research, this is where we should have done the thing and will do the next time we’re in Stockholm. It’s conveniently located directly across the street from Mom’s Kitchen.
Meatballs for the People: The majority of travel guides you see will recommend this place for your hit of Swedish meatballs. Having missed it, but managing to stuff my face at Mom’s kitchen I feel like I win when I lose. I wouldn’t mind stopping at both on our next trip to compare and contrast. Can’t have too many Swedish meatballs.
Johan & Nyström: Missing this coffee roastery and cafe was simply by virtue of location convenience. Hopefully next time we’ll be on less of a time crunch and can make the effort. The original location and concept store is at Swedenborgsgatan 7 and sports a picturesque entrance that will jack you up as much as the promised caffeine.
& Other Stories: I’ve been a from-a-distance fan of this classic, Swedish clothing brand for years. That said, if I would have stopped, I’d fool around and have a ball spending more money than I should.
IKEA: My husband hates fun and irony and refused to let me go. Booooo, Matthew. Boooooo.
2 Days in Stockholm Google Map
Click here for a complete Google map with everywhere mentioned above!
Happy travels. 🧳
ABBA Lyric Game Key
So how many lyrics do you think you found? Leave a comment below and then head over here to check the key. 💛
Other Resources:
Kara and Nate: “First Impressions of Stockholm | Swedish Meatballs & Fika!” on YouTube
Lauren Cotter: “48 Hours in Stockholm | Travel Vlog” on YouTube
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