We’ve all seen pictures of glass-topped igloos sitting on a field of pristine white snow. A picture just like that set in Finnish Lapland inspired my 2-week 40th-birthday trip that expanded to also include stops in Reykjavik, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Helsinki.
But other than glass igloos and snowy landscapes, what should you know if you’re considering a trip to Finnish Lapland, specifically Rovaniemi? Do the hotels and resorts have central plumbing or is it too cold? Is there even anything to do? How good can the food be way up at the Arctic Circle? Can you have a good time if the temps are far below 0?
Below we’ll get into everything you need to know to plan your own trip. Truth be told, Finnish Lapland is a choose-your-own-adventure kind of vacation that has something for everyone. So let’s dive in.
Please note that any prices listed are approximate and will depend on the exchange rate while you are there so please don’t quote me on any of them. Kthanks.
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Finnish Lapland 101
Location & Climate
Rovaniemi sits right on the Arctic Circle line in northern Finland. It serves as the regional capital city of Lapland. Being located on and in the Arctic Circle, it unsurprisingly experiences a subarctic climate with long, snowy winters and short, but pleasant summers.
Despite its frigid winter temps (it was -35°C when we arrived), plumbing in Finnish Lapland is constructed in a way that ensures year-round usability. My mother, in all seriousness, assumed we would have an outhouse situation, but there was nothing rustic about our stay.
Language
The official language is Finnish, but everyone we interacted with spoke flawless English. We had a lot of fun learning a few basic words like “thank you” – kiitos, and “cheers” – kiipis, so make sure you have the Finnish package downloaded on your Google Translate app for looking up words on the go.
Currency
Finland uses the Euro. I always use the xe.com mobile app to get current rates on the road, but for some frame of reference, as of Apr 2, 2024, $1 USD was equal to €0.93.
We never had any need for cash while in Finland, but make sure AmEx is not the only card option in your wallet as it was not as widely accepted as Visa or MasterCard.
Getting There
Two of the easiest ways to access Finnish Lapland are 1) flying into the Rovaniemi airport, or 2) taking the overnight VR Santa Claus Express train from Helsinki to the Rovaniemi station.
We went for option 2 and would do it again in a heartbeat. The sleeper rooms are reasonably priced and cozy. Every room includes a comfortable bunk bed and an extra seat for hanging out and enjoying the views. You can opt to pay a little more if you want a room with an en suite toilet and shower.
In addition to the rooms, the train also features a dining car where we were able to get a decent dinner and a round of Long Drinks for around $45 USD.
Cost: $275 USD for a roundtrip ticket in a room with an en suite.
Getting Around
Getting off the train, a line of taxis was waiting and ready to whisk us off to our destination. No lingering in the freezing cold for us. The 20 minute drive between the station and our hotel cost around $55 USD per trip.
Because we were arriving obsenely early in the morning, we didn’t do much research on other options and paid a premium for convenience, but Rovaniemi also has an excellent public bus system that is worth checking out if you’d rather spend that money elsewhere.
Once you’re settled, in addition to the public bus system, there is also the Apukka Shuttle Bus that connects downtown Rovaniemi, Santa Claus Village, and the Apukka Resort. A one-way ticket is 8€ per adult. Less-expensive rates for children and discounted family bundles are available.
Where to Stay
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
If you’re looking for the full Lapland bucket-list experience, I wholeheartedly recommend staying at Apukka Resort. It is pricey, but the accommodations are romantically picturesque and there is no shortage of things to do, see, or eat on site.
One of our favorite features was the lobby and reception lodge building. It features a small shop, luggage storage, gear room, comfortable lounge seating, and cafe, bar, and snack options. We loved just hanging out and spending blissful child-free time together while enjoying high quality coffee or a metric ton of Long Drinks. They also offer a variety of board games to enjoy while you relax.
I also can’t speak highly enough of the staff. Everyone at Apukka exemplified warmth and friendly hospitality. They were always available to provide recommendations and answer questions. They make it obvious at every turn that they have thought of everything and are driven by giving the best experience possible.
If you’re traveling to Lapland to hunt the aurora borealis, Apukka is partnered with the Aurora Alert Realtime app. The app provides forecasting and when their on-site camera senses an aurora, it pushes out an alert. In instances when you’re unable to see the lights from your glass-roofed accommodations, Apukka also livestreams a realtime aurora watch to YouTube so you can ensure the quality of what’s visible before getting out of your cozy bed. Unfortunately, we never saw the Northern Lights, but we knew we weren’t going at an optimal time of year, so what can you do.
Cost: $2,120 USD for 3 nights in a Queen Aurora Cabin.
If you’re looking for a less expensive option or something in town, I would look into options at Santa Claus Village as well as the Arctic Light Hotel in downtown Rovaniemi.
Finnish Lapland: Choose Your Own Adventure
Romance, Rest, & Relaxation
Something about wintery Finnish Lapland begs you to lounge in a warm, cozy bed next to a flickering fireplace and your special someone.
The vibe here also embodies romance. The winter sun barely rises over the treetops so golden hour lasts all day, reflecting against the sparkling snow in glowing oranges and pinks. And when I say sparkling snow, I mean literally. I don’t know what magic Ullr, the Norse god of winter, manifests to make it happen, but the snow literally glimmers as though it’s mixed with glitter. To get the complete magically romantic experience, take a walk out over the frozen lake at Apukka Resort.
If you’re looking to literally heat things up, Apukka also offers a variety of sauna experiences. They have an ice sauna if you want something to impress your social media followers, a sauna carriage if you don’t want to go farther than your cabin door, or a lakeside sauna if you’re willing to brave a dip in the freezing water for a mix of romance and thrill.
Adrenaline Junky
Apukka Resort serves up a multi-course menu of bucket-list winter adventures for all levels of thrill seeker. You can experience snowmobile safaris, eFatbike tours, snowshoe walks, cultural tours, sleigh rides pulled by horse or reindeer, horseback tours, or ice fishing.
During our trip, we signed up for one activity, which did not disappoint – the Aurora Husky Tour.
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
The team at Apukka made sure we were properly attired for the night-time conditions and then guided us across the street to the sleighs. The guides paired each couple up with the dog team best suited to their physical abilities, weights, etc. After mushing half way along the route, everyone stops so the pairs have the opportunity to switch drivers. Matt and I both took turns and it was such a rush standing on the back flying through the crisp winter night.
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Cost: $428 for a guided husky mush over the frozen lake, a post-ride hot drink and fire-grilled sausage, and gear rental for two people.
Finnish Foodie
I cannot say strongly enough how unbelievably well we ate while in Finnish Lapland. Apukka Resort hosts 2 on-site restaurants dishing up traditional Lappish cuisine – Restaurant Aitta which hosts the breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffets, offers room service, and also provides a seated full-menu dinner service; and Restaurant Kota which serves fixed 3-course dinners in either standard or vegetarian iterations.
The meal we had a Restaurant Kota was hands down the best dining experience I had over the course of our 2-week trip and may even be in contention for the best meal of my life. I will go to the grave dreaming of the smoked reindeer soup and fire-fried salmon.
Located at the Santa Claus Village, Santa’s Salmon Place serves up two dishes. And when a place has such a limited menu, you know what they dish out is going to be perfected. First up is the traditional cheese with homemade cloudberry jam. The second dish is no surprise given the name of the place, salmon cooked over an open flame served with a Finnish potato salad and a warm piece of bread. Both dishes are simplistic perfection. If I had it to do over again, I would get 2 cheese plates and split the salmon, so do with that information what you will.
Santa? I Know Him!
Did you know that Rovaniemi Finland is the official hometown of Santa? That’s right. And no matter the time of year, I would suggest a visit to or stay at Santa Claus Village. Is it touristy? Absolutely. Is it fun? You’re damn right it is. The site hosts a seemingly endless number of shops, restaurants, and attractions, but below are my 3 can’t-miss recommendations.
Walking into the village’s central square, it will be impossible to miss the Arctic Circle line markers. If silly pictures at or jumping back and forth over geographic dividing lines gives you a thrill, this spot is a must.
Right on the central square is also Santa Claus Office where the man himself can be met year-round. During the walk through to meet the big guy, you’ll get an insiders view of everything that goes into making Christmas possible. There are crates of toys the elves have organized by country, a countdown of days until Christmas, and even a baby reindeer daycare.
The other can’t miss attraction in the Village is Santa Claus’s Main Post Office. In addition to being the home office where Santa collects his letters, this fully-functioning post office sells and sends postcards. Each card, with a uniquely designed postmark to reflect its’ Arctic origin, can be sent immediately or can be deposited into special mailboxes to be held and mailed in conjunction with upcoming Christmases.
E. All of the Above
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Because we humans are multifaceted creatures, you might not fit neatly into one of these choose-your-own-adventure categories. The real beauty of Lapland is that time, money, and imagination are your only constraints. Mix, match, and add your own spin to create a unique Finnish Lapland holiday.
So Is Finnish Lapland Worth It?
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Our trip to Finnish Lapland left me feeling completely rejuvenated. It somehow simultaneously provided everything one looks for in travel – relaxation, thrills, romance, excellent food. It is completely and unequivocally worth it.
I would give one tip to ensure a good time – pack well. I’ve broken down what we both packed for our 2-week, January, Nordic vacation included the outfits we created for each temperature range, and highly recommend reading it and preparing accordingly if a trip to Lapland or winter travel in general interests you.
Finnish Lapland Google Map
Click here for a saved Google Map list with everywhere mentioned above.
Happy travels! 🧳
Over to You
Have you been to Finnish Lapland? Where did you go and what did you enjoy most?
If you haven’t been, is it on your travel bucket list? Where would you most like to go and what would you most like to do?
Tell me in the comments! 💛
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