If you missed it, for my 40th birthday (*gasp!* “Seriously Wendy. There is no way you’re 40.” You are so kind! ❤️) my husband and I planned a kid-free adventure through 80% of the Nordic countries that we lovingly dubbed my “Nordy Forty.” After a 48-hour Iceland Stopover in Reykjavik, we hopped a 3-hour flight to enjoy a cultural crash course, one day in Copenhagen.
In a quirky twist of fate, after we had booked everything for our trip we found out that not only would Queen Margrethe II of Denmark be abdicating her throne after 52 years of service, but she would be abdicating while we were there. This proved to be an interesting opportunity for deeper cultural experience that really enhanced our short visit.
Please note any prices listed are approximate and will depend on the exchange rate while you’re there so please don’t quote me on any of them. Kthanks.
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Copenhagen 101
Geography & Climate
Copenhagen, or København in Danish, is the capital city of Denmark. It sits on the eastern end of Zealand island on Øresund, otherwise known as “The Sound.” This narrow straight serves as an aquatic border between Denmark to the west and Sweden to the east.
Copenhagen is in the Oceanic climate zone, which means a narrow range of temperatures between their cool summers and mild winters. While the temperatures themselves were not sub-freezing while we were there, we did find the wind to be pretty cutting and had to layer up more than we had in Reykjavik.
Wondering how we kept the cold wind from ruining our good time?
Check out our full packing strategy here!
Airport
Flights in will land at Copenhagen Airport (CPH), which is conveniently located less than five miles from city center.
Getting Around
In addition to being a very walkable city, Copenhagen has a well-established public-transportation system that includes bus and metro options running 24/7.
Time
Denmark is on Central European Time, which is, typically, 6 hours ahead of Eastern Time. They do observe daylight savings, but dates may not align exactly so be sure to check. Like most of Europe, for any event notices, time will likely be displayed using a 24-hour format, ex. 7:30 pm will show as 19:30.
Language
The official language is Danish, but we had no problems communicating and transacting on kiosks in English.
Currency
Denmark uses the Danish Krone. I always use the xe.com mobile app to get current rates on the road, but for some frame of reference, as of Feb 22, 2024, $1 USD was equal to 6.88 DKK and €1 was 7.45 DKK.
Denmark is near cashless, so there is no need to get currency ahead of time. Make sure AmEx is not the only card option in your wallet as it was not as widely accepted as Visa or MasterCard.
Arrival
Getting from Copenhagen Airport to city center is an absolute breeze via the airport train stop in Terminal 3. There are ticket kiosks conveniently located next to the entrance. Once the train takes off it’s only a 15-minute ride into town. Gotta love a speedy commute when you only have one day in Copenhagen.
Honestly, the walk from the arrival gate to the train station stop in Terminal 3 took longer than the train ride to Copenhagen Central Station.
Cost: $16 USD for two train tickets from CPH to København H (Copenhagen Central Station)
Hotel
Ok… soooooo I know I said in my Reykjavik post that we splurged on that hotel, but to be honest, we kind of splurged on all of them. Your girl likes a nice hotel. For our one night in Denmark, we stayed at Villa Copenhagen, which is housed inside the old Central Post & Telegraph Head Office. The location was the ultimate in convenience, located directly across the street from the Central Station and Tivoli Gardens.
We stayed in a Standard Room, which is the most basic they offer. The room was definitely on the cozier side in terms of size, but was comfortable and charming.
Another big draw for this hotel was the staff. They exuded care, passion, and professionalism without ever creating a sense of stuffiness. It was just a 10 out of 10 experience.
We missed out because, well… we only had one night, but there is a heated rooftop pool available at Villa Copenhagen. If you’re going to be there, highly recommend booking it ahead of time and checking it out.
The lobby is worth stopping in for even if you stay elsewhere. Grab a drink at the bar and enjoy the fully windowed ceiling. It is stunning and gives you the feel of lounging in an atrium without being exposed to the elements.
Cost: $260 USD for one night in a Standard Room.
You could also check out one of these economically priced 4-star Scandic properties in central Copenhagen – Scandic Webers or Scandic Palace. Scandic is a popular Nordic chain and we had a great experience with one of their properties in Stockholm.
Places to Eat
Breakfast
Andersen Bakery: This bakery, located in a quiet suburban neighborhood, is extremely hyped and popular. We arrived later in the morning expecting to have missed the crowd. Instead we found a line winding out the door and down the sidewalk. Inside seating is limited, but not impossible. The cappuccino was solid and the cinnamon roll (kanelsnegl in Danish) was perfectly balanced – not too much icing, not too much cinnamon, perfectly bready.
Cost: $31 for one cappuccino, one Americano, the cinnamon roll dreams are made of and a cream-filled, chocolate-topped fastelavnsboller donut.
Lunch
John’s Hotdog Deli: Our first meal in Copenhagen was at this unassuming hot dog cart located right outside the doors of the Copenhagen Central Station. While similar in style to the dog in Reykjavik, this bad boy was above and beyond in every way. This dog was also topped with sweet mustard, ketchup, (superior) remoulade, and crispy onions, but the marinated red onion and sweet relish just really took it over the top. Unlike the Reykjavik dog, this was also just one of 17 options.
Cost: $15 USD for a hotdog ristet, a hotdog med pølse i svøb, and a Coke.
Tivoli Food Hall/Hallernes Smørrebrød: The Tivoli Food Hall is a 15-stall dining experience connected to and associated with the Tivoli Gardens (more on that in the things we missed section). While options here are plentiful, this was our planned destination to try the Danish staple, smørrebrød – an open-faced sandwich atop dense rye bread.
We opted for two classics, the Danish meatball topped with potato salad and chopped onions, and the fish fillet with remoulade and capers. While both were good, the bread is very dry and very dense. If I’m being honest… I just wasn’t feeling it. If you’ve tried smørrebrød and loved it, let me know where you went and what you got so I can try again next time.
Cost: $50 USD for two smørrebrød, a beer, a raspberry soda, and a bottle of water.
Afternoon Snack
More John’s Hotdog Deli: Yep. It was so good we went twice in 28 hours. Immediately after finishing our smørrebrød.
Dinner
Bæst: Bæst is a seasonal, sustainable restaurant known for their house-made charcuterie and cheese, as well as their next-level, you-will-weep-tears-of-joy-when-you-taste-it pizza. Being located in the Nørrebro neighborhood makes it less accessible for anyone staying in central Copenhagen, but it is hands down worth the effort to get there.
We opted for the Bæst Menu option. You and your dinner companion pick a pizza off the menu and they build out the rest of your meal for a total of seven servings. They also offer something called the Sommelier’s Choice where you can opt for their in-house wine expert to pair your meal with three glasses of wine. We did opt for this and he absolutely rocked it, even with me limiting him to only white wine for my glasses.
In addition to the sommelier being a certified boss, everyone working here was so accommodating and friendly. The kitchen is open into the dining room and even the cooks went out of their way to hello and goodnight. They even entertained a toddler whose mom was carrying him around to give him a break from sitting at the table. All the way around, can’t get over what an amazing experience this meal ended up being.
Cost: $160 for the Bæst Menu, the Sommelier’s Choice, a beer, and the olive oil ice cream.
Things to Do
Nyhavn: This iconic canal in the center of Copenhagen is lined with a rainbow of colorful townhouses from the 1600s and 1700s. It’s also a must see if you only have one day in Copenhagen. The walk offers an endless supply of outdoor cafes and restaurants featuring heating lamps, heated seat pads, and blankets for a cozy happy hour or meal experience. We picked one that seemed to have a good crowd, made ourselves warm little nests, and enjoyed boozy coffees with a view.
The Round Tower (Rundetaarn): Completed in 1642, the Rundetaarn was built by King Christian IV to serve as church, library, and observatory. Today it’s a popular tourist stop for 360° views of the Copenhagen skyline. The walk up is a lot of fun as you spiral higher and higher into the tower. At the top, there is one narrow staircase to the observation deck and traffic is managed by a red light/green light system telling you when you can go up or down without crashing into a fellow visitor.
Cost: $12 USD for two adult admissions.
Gammeltorv: We spend the majority of our one day in Copenhagen just wandering around the city. The oldest market square in Copenhagen is worth passing through as you do just that. The square itself is as old as Copenhagen, dating back to the 12th century. The buildings are comparatively babies, having been built after two massive fires in the 1700s.
Strøget: A pedestrian-only shopping district in Copenhagen with a wide range of price points. Most options we saw were international chains, but definitely a fun path to include as you explore the city. If it’s your thing, you could also check out the Legos Store. You won’t find much that is unique to this location, but Denmark is the home of Legos.
Christiansborg Palace: The home of the Danish Parliament, this building was the epicenter of the abdication of Queen Margrethe II and ascension of King Frederik X. The area around it is worth exploring for the picturesque views of canals and patina-surfaced statues and rooftops.
Pic by Matthew Wynn Photography
Where to Shop
Sommerfuglen: This centrally-located yarn store is apparently the hottest stop for Danish fiber enthusiasts. It houses a huge selection of yarns, threads, and notions. We arrived 20 minutes before closing and it was absolutely packed with shoppers. Luckily the store is laid out efficiently and I was able to navigate to what I needed as quickly as I could weave through the crowd.
Illums Bolighus Tivoli Hjørnet: Located in the same strip as the Tivoli Food Hall, this elevated-souvenir shop offers souvenirs that don’t feel flimsy or cheesy. We ended up leaving with a magnet, tote bag, and glass Christmas ornament of the Danish flag.
Grocery Store: As I am known to do… we ended up popping into a grocery store across the street from Andersen Bakery called 365. Matt was in search of bananas, but what we ended up discovering was the widest selection of remoulade I have ever encountered in my life. Now what kind of lunatic would buy remoulade as a souvenir? Me. I bought remoulade as a souvenir. I regret nothing.
Bonus Cultural Insight: Abdication
I will be the first to admit that until the trip perfectly aligned with Queen Margrethe II’s abdication, I knew less than nothing of the Danish royal family. Even now my knowledge is limited at best. I know the Queen served for 52-years to the day, having chosen to abdicate on the anniversary of her accession. I know the new king is King Frederik X. Honestly, other than the Queen owning a winery (which is a boss move) and the new King – allegedly – having had an extramarital lady friend, the whole thing is pretty low key.
What I found the most interesting about the whole experience was less the transition of one long-reigning monarch to her son, and more the national pride we witnessed as this capital city experienced this historic moment. Danes gathered in Copenhagen to participate and celebrate their monarchy, waving flags and sporting crowns as they made their way through town to Christiansborg Palace for the official proclamation.
Denmark was not the Nordic nation I had heard the most about in terms of national pride (I see you, Finland), but the people I saw that day, and the energy we felt walking through the city, will make that a distinction I will always associate with the Danes moving forward.
Departure
We wrapped our one day in Copenhagen catching a train from the Central Station to Stockholm, Sweden. The station is chock full of shops and food options, but is lacking on places to sit, so I do not suggest getting there more than 30 minutes ahead of your train – just enough time to grab some snacks at the 7-Eleven and find your platform.
Trains to Stockholm are a little bit like the train to Hogwarts in that they live in the in-between. The train never displayed on the departure board and I ended up at least mildly panicked before figuring it out.
And what I figured out was that trains to Stockholm via the Swedish SJ operator will leave from København H from track 26. This track is a 5-6 minute walk (the signs at the station will say 15 minutes) from the main hall somewhere between platforms 3/4 and 5/6. Each platform has its own doorway/escalator down to the tracks and you can take either one.
Luckily, a Dane who lives in Sweden and frequently travels the route saw us looking lost at the end of the platform and guided us because whichever one we chose (I can’t remember) also required us to go up a flight of stairs, a little bit down a sidewalk, and then down another flight of stairs. It was weird.
Places We Didn’t Get To This Go Around
- Tivoli Gardens: This former royal grounds turned amusement park has been in operation since 1843. It allegedly inspired Walt Disney to develop his own brand of amusement parks back in the United States. Unfortunately it is only open seasonally and we were not there in season. One of the rubs with visiting in Copenhagen in January.
- Danish Architecture Center: I still know nothing about what exhibits are housed here, but on one side of the building the stairs double as a play area with a giant web of climbing rope and slides I know my kids would lose their shit over.
- Gasoline Grill: Oh this one pains me. I have heard so many people rave about this place slinging out some of the best burgers in the world, but with the massive abdication crowds we had to navigate through, this one was the ultimate casualty of only having one day in Copenhagen.
- Knitting for Olive: Any knitter or crocheter will be well familiar with Knitting for Olive and their beautiful selection of yarns. Their flagship storefront is in Copenhagen, but not conveniently located in relation to the center of town.
One Day in Copenhagen Google Map
Click here for a complete Google map with everywhere mentioned above!
Happy travels. 🧳
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